Split

16 September 2018

We made our way to Split by bus and checked into our accommodation, an apartment owned by an elderly couple who lived in the flat below. They spoke little English but immediately started feeding us, and we had a steady supply of sandwiches, pastries, juice and sweet treats delivered to our door and in the corridor every time we came and went.

The old town of Split centres around the Diocletian Palace, built by the Roman Emperor in 295 AD, and transformed by subsequent generations ever since. Surrounded by high walls it is now a warren of apartments, shops, restaurants, museums, churches and squares; with a tangled maze of narrow alleyways. Under the palace, the basement was constructed to elevate the Emperor's apartments in order for him too have a better view and sea breeze. It perfectly mirrors the original floor plan of the palace above, and we explored the vast halls one evening after dinner.

We also took a bus to Klis fortress, built on a steep rock pinnacle next to a strategic mountain pass, originally fortified by the Romans. There is an impressive view across the valley towards Split and the Adriatic islands beyond. The fortress is remarkably intact, and makes for great exploring of cobblestone walkways, storehouse, barracks, lookout towers and a small chapel. A small museum explains how the Uskoks were fierce,undefeated warriors for more than 25 years before finally losing the fortress to the Ottomans.

Back in Split, we wandered across town to the Maritime museum, also housed in an old fortress. It housed an impressive collection of model ships throughout the ages, including the Yugoslav navy destroyer Split, which ironically attacked its namesake city in 1991. There was also an impressive display on the invention and subsequent use of torpedos.

We then managed to find Bacvice beach, Split’s “best” “sandy” beach. Beaches in Croatia are described as rocky, pebble, shingle or sandy, the latter being the most desirable. The water is warm and shallow and clear but the beaches themselves are average at best, with a small patch of dirty sand crowded with people roasting themselves in the sun. There are no waves and seemingly no tides, so they are a bit boring, and we are rather spoilt.

We spent the evening climbing a small hill next to the city for beautiful sunset views, before descending for dinner in the city.